The front pockets on the Vide Knit Pants Sewing Pattern use a method inspired by RTW dress pants, but I’ve simplified it to suit knit sewing better. This technique looks very polished and reduces bulk to the bare minimum.
Preparation
Cut the pocket, pocket lining and interfacing pieces. I highly recommend using a thin cotton jersey for the upper layer of the pocket lining. That way you’ll minimise the risk of the pocket showing through on your legs.
You don’t need to use matching fabric for the lining, as the pocket-facing extension will hide the pocket lining. But if you don’t have any suitable fabric scraps, you can use the pants fabric for the entire pocket.
Interface the facing extensions
Add interfacing on the wrong side of the pocket extension on the front pieces.
Fuse the interfacing to the fabric with an iron. Go slowly and press, following the instructions for your chosen interfacing.
Fold over the extension at the notch marking and press the fold.
Overcast the edges
Overcast the edges using an overlock or zigzag stitch. This step is optional as the fusible will prevent the edges from curling. However, the edge finish will look more polished if you stitch over it.
Attach pocket lining to the extension
Place the pocket lining on the extension. The right side of the pocket lining should face the interfaced extension. The edge of the lining should be placed along the pressed fold.
Pin to keep the facing in place and double-check that the entire lining is aligned with the fold.
Turn over the pieces and add pins on the right side instead. This will make the next step easier. Again, double-check that the entire lining is aligned inside the fold. This is the only tricky bit with this pocket assembly method. If you are struggling with it, try basting instead.
Stitch along the edges to attach the extension to the pocket lining. Start at the facing edge and stitch from the right side with a straight stitch. Make sure that the lining fabric doesn’t slip.
At the edge, pivot and then stitch the second row a few millimetres in from the pressed fold. Make sure the inner row catches the lining fabric. This can be a little bit tricky, so basting can be helpful if you are struggling with this step.
Pivot again and overlap and backstitch. This step should be sewn as one continuous seam.
The finished seam. Here you can see how the stitch is placed a little bit away from the fold. Don’t worry if the seam isn’t totally straight. None of the stitching will be visible from the outside once the pockets are finished.
Sew the pockets
Place pocket piece over pocket lining, right sides facing, and pin.
Stitch along the edges to close the pocket. Use a serger overlock seam or a narrow zigzag stitch. Make sure you don’t pull the pocket when sewing around the round corner as this can cause the seam to stretch out.
Stitch the upper pocket opening
This step is optional, but I strongly recommend it as it will prevent the pocket opening from gaping and provide a more polished finish.
Open up the front piece and align the notches on the facing and the pocket piece.
Measure and mark the seam length. The distance from the waistline should be around 3 cm (1¼”). Place a pin where the seam should end.
Stitch along the fold opening from the waistline and down. Backstitch a couple of times to secure as this will be an area that will have some stress, so to speak.
The finished opening. This is so easy to do and makes a substantial difference, so worth a try.
Baste pockets to the front piece
Before joining the leg pieces together it’s best to secure the pocket to the front piece. Otherwise, there is a risk of the pocket shifting around during sewing.
Pin the upper edge and the side of the pocket to the front piece.
Machine baste the upper pocket to the waist edge and the sides to keep it in place. Use a long straight stitch.
Now the pockets are done on the Vide Pants. This method really elevates the look of the pocket, so I hope that this tutorial did a good job of explaining how to do it.
Follow the Vide Sew-Along series.
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