Ready to start making your Vide Knit Pants? In this first instalment of the Vide Sew-Along series, I will show you how to cut and mark the fabric, with lots of clever tips that I think will be very useful anytime you are cutting knit fabrics.
Aligning grainline on knits
When working with knitted fabrics, it’s important to follow the rib of the fabric rather than the edges. Since knits don’t have straight edges, it’s best to align the pattern grainline with a vertical formation such as a rib, instead of measuring from the fabric edge. If you’re folding the fabric lengthwise, look for a prominent vertical line and fold along it to ensure a straight cut.
Notice how the fabric is folded along a clear vertical rib formation. This should be your guide and not the selvedge.
Bonus tip: Fold the pattern to align the grainline
This method is best for cutting pieces with irregular edges, when cutting a single layer or if you are struggling to align the pattern grainline with the ribs
Fold the pattern along the grainline.
Align the folded edge with the vertical formation on the knit fabric.
Open the pattern and lay it flat on the fabric. Now, the pattern’s grainline is aligned with the grainline on the knit fabric.
Cutting the pieces
I prefer using a rotary cutter and a mat as it makes cutting knits easier and faster, resulting in more even edges. But a sharp pair of scissors works great too.
Use scissors in tricky places
When cutting the pocket-facing extension it’s easier to use scissors, since the corners are so narrow.
Use weights rather than pins
Pins can distort the fabric by pulling it together, resulting in less precise cutting. Instead, use pattern weights to keep the pattern pieces in place during cutting. For pattern weights, I use thick washers that you can get in most hardware stores, they will last a lifetime and are very budget-friendly. If using pins, place them sparingly and close to the edges.
Cutting the pocket lining
I recommend using a thinner jersey fabric for the upper layer of the pocket to reduce bulk. This minimises the risk of the pocket contours showing on the leg.
I used an old thrifted cotton jersey t-shirt for the lining, but any cotton jersey fabric will work. Just use some scraps from previous projects, the colour doesn’t have to match the garment fabric.
Cutting the interfacing
Any lightweight fusible interfacing can be used for the pocket facing. Cut it so that there is just a tiny bit of stretch lengthwise.
Marking notches
Tailor’s chalk doesn’t stick well on most knit fabrics. Instead, I recommend clipping tiny notches onto the seam allowances using a sharp pair of scissors. I recommend the Kai brand (Amazon affiliate link).
The Vide pants have very clip-friendly notches. Either place the scissors underneath the notch and cut.
Or use a pattern notcher (Amazon affiliate link) to cut out a small notch in the pattern.
Cut tiny notches onto the seam allowances, making them no more than 2-3 mm long (⅛”). Since we are using stable, densely knit fabrics for the Vide pants, there is no risk of the fabric unravelling.
Marking the right side
Sometimes it can be hard to distinguish the right from the wrong side, especially on darker knits, such as black jersey. To make it easier, use fabric-friendly tape, pins or Post-it notes to mark the right side after cutting the pieces.
Marking the darts
In this tutorial, I will show how to mark darts using a combination of clipping notches and a tracing pen. Can’t get the tracing chalk to stick on the fabric? Use this method for marking darts instead.
Cut two tiny notches in the seam allowance to mark the starting points of the dart. Cut through both layers.
Put a pin at the tip of the dart. We are still using both layers (pieces) here.
Carefully lift the pattern piece, ensuring that the pin is still through both layers.
Lift and fold back the upper back piece at the pin. With the wrong sides facing up, mark the dart tip on both pieces with a tracing pen. The pin is your guide.
Place pins in the markings as an extra safety measure if the chalk might rub off before you sew the darts.
Remove the pattern and separate the back pieces. The rest of the steps are done on each piece separately. To mark the legs of the dart, first locate the cut notches.
Fold the edges so that the notches align.
Pin the dart. On the wrong side, place a pin just below the tip of the dart, and one pin near the notches.
To mark the dart legs, use a ruler and a tracing pen or wheel. I’m using the Clover Chaco Liner, which is really great.Draw a line from the tip to the notches on the wrong side. If necessary, temporarily remove the upper pin to make tracing easier. Draw the line on the side that will be facing up when sewing, i.e. the line should be on the left for both pieces.
The finished marked dart. Add the upper pin again if you removed it during marking.
Marking pintucks
Mark the pintuck notches at the waist and hem by cutting tiny clips into the seam allowance.
Place a few pins along the pintuck marking line.
Carefully lift up the pattern piece, ensuring that the pins are still through both layers. On the right side, insert new pins through both layers, vertically. Remove the pattern pieces.
Now insert vertical pins on both front pieces separately on the right side. Use the first set of pins as your guide and then remove them. If you find this fiddly, place the pattern on each piece separately and use the same method.
The pinned pintuck line. You don’t need more than 3–4 pins in total. Now you’ve finished all the prep work and can start sewing the Vide Knit Pants.
Check out the Vide Sew-Along series.
Want to learn even more tips for cutting knits? Check out my complete guide to cutting knit fabrics.
