Back darts on pants are a great way to create shaping, which is why I added them to the Vide Knit Pants. However, sewing darts on knits requires different techniques for marking and sewing compared to woven fabrics. In this second instalment of the Vide Sew-Along series, I’ll show you how to sew darts on stretchy fabrics using some helpful tricks you may not have tried before.
Preparation
Mark and the pin darts as described in the marking darts post
Stitch settings for sewing knit darts
A narrow zigzag is usually the best stitch when sewing darts on knits. A straight stitch with a shorter stitch length might work if the fabric is very stable, but it could also break on stretchy knits. Always do stitch samples to test the settings. If you need more stretch, shorten the stitch length. If the zigzag creates an uneven “bumpy” seam, decrease the width to make the stitch straighter.
Narrow zigzag settings
Width: 0.5−1 mm
Length: 1.5–2 mm
Short stitch zigzag settings
Width: 0.5 mm
Length: 1 mm
Use this setting to secure the ends of the darts, combined with tying the threads into a knot.
Sewing the darts
Start from the wide part of the dart, at the cut notches. Use the narrow zigzag setting. Start with a backstitch, and then stitch towards the dart tip, following the markings.
Shorten the stitch length when you are around 1.5 cm (5/8″) from the tip.
Sew the final stitches parallel to the fold, as close to the edge as possible to avoid a dimple at the tip of the dart. Remove the pin when you get close to the tip. Sew until you reach the edge and don’t backstitch.
Lift the presser foot and remove the pants. Cut the threads, leaving 10 cm (4″)-long tails.
Tie the thread ends together to secure the dart. For extra safety, tie a second knot.
Trim the extra thread after tying the knots.
Pressing the darts
Pressing is crucial for a flat dart without dimples. Follow these steps for the best result.
Start by pressing the edge of the dart on a flat surface.
Fold the darts towards the mid-back (crotch). Iron towards the dart point (on the wrong side of the pants).
For an even better pressing, use a tailor’s ham. I found this tip in the Reader’s Digest Complete Guide To Sewing Book (Amazon affiliate links) and it makes the dart extra flat and nicely shaped.
To smooth out the dart even more, do a second pressing on the right side of the top. Use low heat and a pressing cloth to protect the fabric.
The finished dart. As you can see it is very flat with no puckers or dimples. The key steps for a great dart are to finish sewing at the very edge of the tip and to press properly.
Check out the Vide Sew-Along series.
Want to learn even more tips for sewing darts on knits, including other options for marking and sewing? Follow my complete tutorial for sewing darts on knits.
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