For my wool underwear set I did a lot of experimenting before I got started to see which method that would be best for applying stretch lace to a very stretchy knit. In the end, I had to use two different methods, since I discovered that there are many variables to consider when applying stretch lace to a knit garment. So I thought I should share my experiment and give a quick overview on the pros and cons of each method.
Coverstitch
I had a pair of store bought wool/silk panties as my guide for making makng my underwear. And on these the stretch lace was attached using a narrow coverstitch seam. So I decide to use the same method for attaching the lace on the legs and at the waist. A tip is to sew the seam as close to the scallop as possible, since it will prevent the lace edge from flipping over
Also I think that this method could be replicated using a twin-needle on a regular sewing machine.
Lace attached with the coverstitch machine
The inside view of the coverstitch
Pros
- Has great stretchability and is very durable
- Looks very discreet
- Due to the differential feed on the coverstitch machine you run no risk stretching out the fabric while sewing
Cons
- Requires a coverstitch machine
- Won’t work on lace with big scallops as you can only sew straight lines
Zigzag stitch
A medium regular zigzag is what’s normally recommended for attaching stretch lace, and that’s what I used for attaching the neckline lace. But a 3-step zigzag is also a good choice, since it’s more durable and has even greater stretch.
Lace attached with a zigzag stitch
The inside view of the zigzags titch
Pros
- Has good stretchability (a little less than the coverstitch)
- Works very well for sharp corners and big scallops since you can easily follow the shape of the lace (hence why I used it for the v-shaped neckline)
- Every machine has this stitch
Cons
- There is a slight risk that the fabric will be growing, so there might be some puckers on the garment when the lace is not stretched out on the body.
- Also be careful not to add more lace to accommodate a growing fabric, since then there will be nothing to keep it in check
Flatlock stitch
I did a couple of samples using this method, but ended up not using it since the flatlock seam covered the upper scallop. But for stretch elastic with only one scallop edge or a lace with a straight line on one side, I think this could be an excellent choice. Also if you have woolly nylon, this could be a great option here in the lower looper, since it will make the seam very lush and pretty.
The 2-thread flatlock seam when pulled flat (the sample is a bit shoddy, but with better settings and woolly nylon it would have looked neater)
Pros
- Has great stretchability and is very durable
- The flatlock seam is nice decorative detail
- By using a high differential feed on the serger you run no risk stretching out the fabric while sewing
Cons
- Covers the upper edge
- Requires a serger
So to sum it up, different situations might call for different ways to attach stretch lace. I will say though that I really liked the coverstitch method has it keeps even the stretchiest fabric in check!
